How to Soundproof a Door: The Definitive Guide

A household is a noisy place. Today's contemporary constructions are geared towards lightweight development and open floor plans, which may look great, but they tend to amplify soundwaves somewhat. Combine all that with the evolution of personal gadgets, high-tech audio equipment and the hurly-burly of modern life, and you might find that getting that R&R you need after a stressful day is hard to come by. Your home is where you go to escape the world; it's where you relax and prepare yourself for the challenges of the day, so blaring commotions and noisy distractions can be very disruptive. Of course, you can try some very basic solutions like using draught excluders to block the gap between the bottom of the door and the ground. However, since this can only do so much, why not go the whole hog and soundproof the door to create your very own refuge from the hustle and bustle, so you can finally relax in peace?

The Basics

Doors are the weakest link when it comes to soundproofing, but acoustically rated sound doors can cost thousands. In this Internal Doors blog, we'll show you how to soundproof your doors for a fraction of the cost. There are three initial challenges you should be aware of before you begin your project: - Most doors allow sound to penetrate with ease. - The gaps along the side of the doors are a sound path. - The gap between the bottom of the door and the floor is the most prominent avenue for transporting sound. Here’s What You’ll Need:

• Green Glue
• Fibreboard (MDF)
• Soundproofing Rubber
• Door Gasket
• Acoustic Caulk
• Automatic Door Bottom

Phase One: Door Panel Reinforcement

Sound waves are persistent and will have no problem travelling through a door panel – especially if it is hollow and of a cheaper variety. You'll need a stable wooden door with the flattest possible surface area to create an effective noise barricade. It's also important to replace your hollow door with a solid core door - alone these aren't as effective as acoustic preventing doors, but they will add another layer of protection from sound coming from other areas of the home.  When you come to buy your fibreboard, it's best to look for between one and two inch thick, smooth MDF as this aesthetically pleasing and paints nicely. This adds mass to your door and allows you to add a layer of your noise proofing glue compound in between. Apply up to two tubes of the green glue onto the back of the MDF and the door, then screw it tightly, so the adhesive is sandwiched in between. You can install doorknobs by drilling a hole through the MDF, but for ultimate acoustic protection use a ball and catch handle to eliminate sound travelling through the door.

Green Glue is a damping product that works to dissipate the vibrations caused by sound waves travelling through the air and attempting to move through rigid structures. Click here to find out more

Once phase one is complete, it's time to move to phase two.

Phase Two: Fill Perimeter Gaps

Although your door and wall framing is covered by moulding, it is actually a big sound leak area. This is where you now apply your soundproofing rubber into the big gaps beneath the moulding. Once the rubber is applied along the side and the top, use your acoustical caulk to fill in the small nooks and crannies before reinstalling your moulding.

Phase Three: Install Door Trimming

This step is about sealing up the gap between the door and frame; along the top and down the sides. Whenever a door is fitted, a gap is created between the door and the frame to allow the door to open and close freely. If you are on a budget, it is possible to use low-cost weather stripping to fill the gaps, but this does tend to wear and wither over time. But, if you’re looking for a longer lasting solution that will stand the test of time, we highly recommend adjustable gaskets, which will give you the option to adjust the seal with a screwdriver. This is especially useful because doors tend to expand and warp when exposed to certain environmental conditions such as temperature changes throughout the year.

Gaps around the perimeter of your doors are amongst the most common infiltration points for noise and air. Installing an efficient seal ensures that not only are you guarding a room against noise but energy loss too

Phase Four: Seal the Bottom Gap

The last phase is to block the gap from the bottom of the door and the floor. Rubber sweeps won't work here because you can't achieve a proper seal. If the seal is tight to the floor, it will be impossible to open, whereas if it isn't tight you won't achieve an effective seal. Our expert solution is to use an automatic door bottom. This can be installed flush with the bottom of the door and will fix the seal into place once the door is closed and raise again when the door opens using a special nut that disappears into the door jamb.

Automatic door bottoms use a hidden spring mechanism. When the door closes, a clip or nut is pushed against the door frame which activates the device. Once it is triggered, the mechanism will lower the seal and create a vacuum between the floor and the door. The seal falls hinge side first to ensure a smooth opening and retracts on its own when the door is opened

Overall, there are many ways to partially soundproof a door, but they are only temporary fixes. Soundproofing your internal doors correctly means that you can create a lasting seal from the acoustics coming from other parts of your house. Not only that, but you are also saving on your energy bills too. For more information on the right doors for your latest project, contact us or visit our Lutterworth showroom.